La Caravelle, Cuvée Niña Brut, NV (375ml)   $49

Pinot Meunier | Vallée de la Marne. Dry and powerfully expressive — red fruit, dried apricot and chamomile on the nose, with a broad, creamy palate, taut minerality and a strikingly dry finish. Zero dosage.

Chartogne-Taillet, Merfy, Grands Champs, Cuvée Saint Thierry Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut, 2016   $179

Pinot Noir | Montagne de Reims. Silky and dry with wild strawberry, hawthorn blossom and crushed stone — a precise, terroir-focused grower Champagne with excellent tension.

Corbon, Avize, Les Bacchantes Grand Cru, 2013   $180

Chardonnay | Côte des Blancs. Dry and deeply mineral, with preserved lemon, orchard blossom and a long, iodine-laced finish. Grand Cru Avize at its most focused.

Vincent Laval, Cumières, Rosé Premier Cru Brut Nature, 2020   $220

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay | Vallée de la Marne. Foot-stomped and zero-dosage, this rosé is vibrant and bone-dry with wild cranberry, blood orange, sour cherry and an electrifying mineral backbone.

Vilmart & Cie, Cœur de Cuvée, Brut Premier Cru, 2014 $225
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir | Champagne. Made from the very first pressing of the finest Premier Cru fruit, oak-fermented and with malolactic blocked to preserve tension. The 2014 impresses with its density and energy — apricot, baked apple tart, chamomile and lightly honeyed accents on a deep, beautifully centered palate of impeccable balance. A richly decadent Champagne with real structural ambition. Rilly-la-Montagne, Montagne de Reims.

Emmanuel Brochet, Le Mont Benoît, 1er Cru Extra Brut [Base 2018], NV   $235

Champagne Blend | Montagne de Reims. Dried flowers, roasted almond, spiced pear and chamomile on an ample, creamy palate — vinous and concentrated yet remarkably light on its feet.

Cédric Bouchard (Roses de Jeanne), Côte de Béchalin, Blanc de Noirs Brut (R14, Disgorgement 2021), NV   $355

Pinot Noir | Côte des Bar. Bone-dry and searingly precise — white peach, citrus zest and crushed chalk, with a taut, saline finish and remarkable length for a zero-dosage wine.

Jérôme Prévost (La Closerie), Gueux, Les Béguines, Extra Brut (LC17), NV   $365

Pinot Meunier | Montagne de Reims. Honeycomb, confit lemon, warm bread and candle wax on the nose; full-bodied and racy on the palate, with deep, sapid fruit, chalky texture and a finish that builds for minutes.

Alsace — White

Trimbach, Cuvée Frédéric Émile, Riesling, 2007 $168
Riesling | Alsace. From old vines straddling the Grands Crus Osterberg and Geisberg in Ribeauvillé — the 2007 is the driest rendition of this cuvée ever produced, with arrow-like penetration, adamant stoniness, citrus zest and bracing salinity alongside a deep, marrow-like richness. Bone-dry and built for the long haul.

Burgundy — White

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Pouilly-Fuissé, En Chatenay 2020   $66

Chardonnay | Mâconnais. From 60-year-old vines, this has a lively bouquet of yellow stone fruit, beeswax and honeysuckle — poised on the palate, lightly spiced and harmonious, with a fluid texture and persistent finish.

Chanterêves, Bourgogne Aligoté, Les Chagniots, 2019   $80

Aligoté | Burgundy. Crisp and lively with citrus zest, white flowers and a subtle nuttiness — a benchmark for the variety, showing real depth and texture.

Domaine de Villaine, Bouzeron, 2017   $87

Aligoté | Côte Chalonnaise. Dry and mineral, with green apple, lemon and an almost saline freshness — the definitive expression of Bouzeron from Burgundy's most respected producer of Aligoté.

Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé, 2020   $120

Chardonnay | Mâconnais. Dry and precise, with lemon blossom, ripe pear and a clean, chalky finish — Leflaive's meticulous biodynamic farming evident in every sip.

Roulot, Bourgogne Aligoté, 2017   $130

Aligoté | Côte de Beaune. Unusually textured for Aligoté — lemon zest, almond skin and sea salt on a palate of impressive depth, from Burgundy's most celebrated white wine estate.

Bachelet-Monnot, Puligny-Montrachet, 2021   $155

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Dry and elegant with the classic delicacy of Puligny. A touch of textured oak nuance, with lots of floral aromas.

Hubert Lamy, Santenay, Clos des Gravières, 1er Cru, 2020   $160

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. One of the quiet sleepers in Lamy's range — pear, orange oil, white flowers and freshly baked bread on the nose; medium to full-bodied, seamless and satiny on the palate with a fleshy core of fruit, racy acids and a long saline finish. Aged in barrels, wine globes and ceramic vessels.

Billaud-Simon, Chablis, Montée de Tonnerre, 1er Cru, 2014   $165

Chardonnay | Chablis. Montée de Tonnerre at its finest — ripe citrus, wet stone and brioche on a full, concentrated palate with a long, mineral finish that speaks of a great year.

Simon Bize, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Aux Vergelesses, 1er Cru, 2019   $169

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Dry and refined, with orchard fruit, white flowers and a precise, nutty finish — a Premier Cru that shows the underrated white wine potential of Savigny.

Pierre Morey, Meursault, 2017   $175

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Lemon cream, a touch of oak but beautifully integrated and balanced.

Roulot, Auxey-Duresses, 2017   $179

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Beautifully composed, with ripe apple, honeysuckle and a touch of smoke — Roulot's mastery transforms this often-overlooked appellation into something genuinely special.

Henri Germain, Meursault, Chevalières 2017   $180

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Saline and mineral driven Meursault from an underrated but excellent producer, with notes of citrus and crisp pear.

Pierre Morey, Meursault, 2017   $175

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Lemon cream, a touch of oak but beautifully integrated and balanced.

Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin, En Remilly, 1er Cru, 2017   $225

Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Dense and complex, with nectarine, toasted brioche and a long, stony finish — En Remilly is one of Saint-Aubin's most compelling Premier Cru sites.

Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, 2020 $235
Chardonnay | Côte de Beaune. Pillot's village-level Chassagne punches well above its classification — orange oil, pear, freshly baked bread and nutmeg on the nose, leading to a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural palate that is seamless and fleshy, with tangy acidity and a mouthwateringly mineral finish. Outstanding value from one of the appellation's most quietly admired estates.

Loire Valley — White

Gérard Boulay, Sancerre, Monts Damnés, 2015   $82

Sauvignon Blanc | Upper Loire. From the great chalky hillside of Chavignol, vinified and aged in tank — salty and mineral, with bright ripe grapefruit, fennel, blackcurrant leaf and a firm, tensile palate that demands time and rewards patience.

Gérard Boulay, Sancerre, Clos de Beaujeu, 2018   $90

Sauvignon Blanc | Upper Loire. From the same Grande Côte hillside as François Cotat's eponymous cuvée, but due south-facing and chalkier — a more exotic, richly-textured Sancerre than Monts Damnés, with passion fruit, menthol and a firmly structured, saline, grippy finish.

La Pépière, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine, (Clos des) Briords, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, 2014   $100

Melon de Bourgogne | Pays Nantais. Old-vine depth and complexity — salted citrus, wild herbs and a long, stony finish with the kind of grip and persistence rarely seen in this appellation.

Luneau-Papin, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine, Le L d'Or, 1999   $125

Melon de Bourgogne | Pays Nantais. Remarkably aged Muscadet — toasted almond, dried citrus peel and a strikingly savory, almost amber complexity; a window into how long great Melon can live.

Savoie

Dominique Belluard, Vin de Savoie, Grandes Jorasses, 2018   $88

Altesse (Roussette) | Savoie. From the Ayze vineyard at the foot of Mont Blanc — a rare and highly aromatic variety farmed on glacial moraine and marl. Floral and complex, with white peach, ginger, apricot and a stony, alpine precision on the finish; markedly different in character from Belluard's Gringet.

Jura

Des Marnes Blanches, Côtes du Jura, En Quatre Vis, 2016   $90

Chardonnay | Jura. Dry and subtly oxidative in the Jurassien tradition — toasted hazelnut, quince and lemon curd, with a savory, almost waxy texture and considerable depth.

Rhône

Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2012   $190

White Rhône Blend | Southern Rhône. An extraordinary white Châteauneuf — honeyed stone fruit, almond, saffron and white flowers, with a rich, glyceric texture and extraordinary length

Rheinhessen

Keller, Kabinett Limestone, 2018   $66

Riesling | Rheinhessen. Off-dry and gossamer-light — zesty lime, white peach blossom and a whisper of sweetness perfectly balanced by electric acidity and stony Limestone terroir.

Keller, Riesling, Von der Fels, Trocken, 2023   $79

Riesling | Rheinhessen. Bone-dry and joyfully expressive — drawn from GG-classified parcels in Kirchspiel, Abtserde, Hubacker and Morstein, this is an intensely chalky, racy wine brimming with citrus fruit, spring flowers and a wonderful succulence, with a structural drive that pushes the finish well out. Remarkable complexity for its classification.

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Stein, St. Aldegunder Himmelreich, Kabinett Feinherb, 2016   $75

Riesling | Mosel. Barely off-dry with a dancing interplay of lime zest, slate and white peach — light-bodied and thrillingly refreshing, with the kind of cut that only Mosel Riesling delivers.

Hermann Ludes, Thornicher Ritsch, Kabinett Feinherb, "Gackes Oben", 2021   $82

Riesling | Mosel. Feinherb and fragrant — apricot, nectarine and floral notes balanced by a firm, mineral spine and the characteristic racy acidity of the Mosel valley.

Willi Schaefer, Graacher Domprobst, Kabinett Grosse Lage AP #3, 2017   $90

Riesling | Mosel. A Grosse Lage Kabinett of impeccable purity — grapefruit, crushed wet slate and delicate stone fruit, with barely perceptible sweetness and a finish of startling length.

Joh. Jos. Prüm, Graacher Himmelreich, Spätlese, 2015   $100

Riesling | Mosel. Seductive Spätlese from a landmark estate — ripe peach, mango and honeysuckle with the trademark Prüm freshness and a long, sweet-tart finish.

Egon Müller, Scharzhof, 2015   $135

Riesling | Saar. Off-dry and breathtakingly precise — citrus oil, white flower and mineral austerity, with the Scharzhofberg's famous crystalline slate lending a finish of remarkable tension and length.

Niederösterreich

Franz Hirtzberger, Spitzer Hochrain, Smaragd, 2015   $120

Riesling | Wachau. Dry and powerfully structured — ripe apricot, citrus and a mineral depth from Spitzer's terraced granite slopes; Smaragd weight with the tension of a great year.

Prager, Weissenkirchner Achleiten, Smaragd, 2013   $135

Riesling | Wachau. Achleiten Smaragd in a classic vintage — white flowers, peach stone and a stony, almost salty minerality, with the power and grip to age for decades.

Burgundy — Red

Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne, 2015   $75

Pinot Noir | Côte de Beaune. Effortlessly elegant — bright red cherry, violet and earthy sous-bois, with silky tannins and the linear freshness that is Lafarge's unmistakable signature.

Cassiopée, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Les Côtes, 2020   $75

Pinot Noir | Côte de Beaune. Fragrant and juicy — crushed raspberry, red currant and dried herbs, with a soft, supple palate and genuine typicity at a very honest price.

Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie, Cuvée Tardive, 2018   $82

Gamay | Beaujolais. Late-harvest Fleurie — peony, black cherry and a spiced warmth from the later pick, with soft tannins and a velvety, generous texture.

Berthaut-Gerbet, Fixin, Les Crais, 2020   $105

Pinot Noir | Côte de Nuits. Dark and savory — blackcurrant, iron and forest floor with firmer tannins and a more structured palate than most villages Burgundy. A wine for the table.

Yvon Métras, Beaujolais, Deuxième Mise, 2018  $150

Gamay | Beaujolais. A separate bottling Métras makes only in distinctive vintages — the Deuxième Mise is a little more purple-fruited and deeply nuanced than the Première, with a bouncy lift, granite-inflected minerality and the beautiful texture that makes Métras one of the most collected natural wine addresses in France.

Simon Bize, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Aux Vergelesses, 1er Cru, 2016   $155

Pinot Noir | Côte de Beaune. Beautifully balanced — red and black fruit, a touch of spice and fine, powdery tannins; Vergelesses is one of Savigny's finest Premier Cru sites and this delivers.

Pierre & Marianne Duroché, Chambolle-Musigny, Aux Échanges, 1er Cru, 2022 $190
Pinot Noir | Côte de Nuits. Aux Échanges is a lower-lying Premier Cru in Chambolle-Musigny, and in Duroché's hands it shows the village's signature perfume and silkiness — red cherry, rose and a fine, earthy, briny mineral core, with lacy tannins and a long, saline finish. Chambolle-Musigny.

Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny, 2016   $225

Pinot Noir | Côte de Nuits. Quintessential Chambolle — hauntingly perfumed with rose, violet and red cherry, with a silky, gossamer texture and the kind of ethereal finish the village is famed for.

Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale, 1er Cru, 2016 $250
Pinot Noir | Côte de Nuits. Mugnier's 9.5-hectare monopole in Prémeaux is vinified with characteristic restraint — a pure, precise bouquet of blackberry, briar, crushed stone and iris that gently unfolds, leading to a medium-bodied palate of sappy red fruit, crisp acidity and lightly spiced notes of curry leaf and white pepper on the persistent finish. Nuits-Saint-Georges.

Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, Les Champans, 1er Cru, 2017 $295
Pinot Noir | Côte de Beaune. D'Angerville holds nearly four hectares of Champans, with rows running the full length of the slope through both limestone and clay soils. The 2017 shows wonderful grace and precision — mineral-infused cranberry and wild strawberry, medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, beautifully integrated oak, and a note of orange rind toward the sustained, audacious finish. Volnay.

Georges Roumier, Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos de la Bussière, 1er Cru, 2011 $350

Pinot Noir | Côte de Nuits. From one of Burgundy's greatest estates — silky, ethereal and perfectly evolved, with game, dried rose and forest floor, and a finish of breathtaking length.

Loire Valley — Red

Catherine & Pierre Breton, Bourgueil, Les Perrières, 2010 $100
Cabernet Franc | Touraine. From a clay-siliceous plot planted in 1934, biodynamically farmed and aged 24 months in barrel in a troglodyte cellar — the top wine from this producer, with richly concentrated black fruit, tannins that have resolved into ripe spice and a generous, full-bodied texture. At over a decade of age, the 2010 has developed the tobacco, graphite and dried herb complexity that only old-vine Loire Cab Franc achieves with time. Bourgueil.

Germain, Saumur-Champigny, Clos de l’Échelier, 2015   $120

Cabernet Franc | Anjou-Saumur. Spicy and earthy — pencil lead, smoked meat, and showing a fruit forward palette.

Clos Rougeard (Foucault), Saumur-Champigny, 2014   $325

Cabernet Franc | Anjou-Saumur. One of France's most sought-after reds — very open, perfumed and elegant; red fruit, violets and a whisper of green pepper on the nose, with flawless balance and many years ahead. From the legendary last complete Foucault vintage.

Provence

Pradeaux, Bandol, 2010   $130

Mourvèdre | Provence. Dense, brooding and magnificently structured — dark olive, dried herbs, licorice and iron, with the tannic grip and savory depth that defines great aged Bandol.

Rhône

Clusel-Roch, Côte-Rôtie, Les Schistes, 2019   $110

Syrah | Northern Rhône. Dark-fruited and savory — blackberry, olive, white pepper and smoked meat, with the firm, schist-driven mineral structure of Les Schistes and a long, inky finish.

Charvin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2019   $135

Red Rhône Blend | Southern Rhône. Rich, plush and warmly spiced — dark cherry, lavender, garrigue and fig, with the rounded, sun-drenched depth of a great Châteauneuf-du-Pape vintage.

Bernard Levet, Côte-Rôtie, La Chavaroche, 2010   $165

Syrah | Northern Rhône. Magnificently evolved — roasted meat, bacon, violet and dark olive, with a full, resonant palate and the kind of savory complexity only bottle-aged northern Rhône Syrah achieves.

René Rostaing, Côte-Rôtie, La Landonne, 2017   $200

Syrah | Northern Rhône. La Landonne at its most powerful — inky, concentrated and deeply savory, with black olive, roasted meat, iron and pepper on a full-bodied, tannic frame built for the ages.

Pierre Gonon, Saint-Joseph, 2016   $275

Syrah | Northern Rhône. Utterly brilliant — bursting open with fresh blackberry, salted meat, black olive, pepper, smoke and dried savory herbs. Full-bodied, with polished tannins surrounding a juicy dark-fruited core and a long, remarkably fresh finish of extraordinary balance. Jean Gonon calls 2016 'the last classic vintage.' Saint-Joseph.

Bordeaux

Château La Grave (Paul Barre), Fronsac, 2010   $55

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec | Bordeaux. Biodynamically farmed since 1990 — an elegant, mineral-driven Fronsac with earth, dark berries, cocoa and camphor on the nose, and a juicy, concentrated palate with major structure and depth. Over fifteen years of age have smoothed the tannins beautifully. Fronsac.

Baden

Enderle & Moll, Buntsandstein Ida, 2015   $90

Pinot Noir | Baden. Dry and precise — sour cherry, dried rose and a distinctive sandy, mineral texture from Buntsandstein (red sandstone) soils; an elegant, site-expressive German Pinot Noir.

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Günther Steinmetz, Mülheimer Sonnenlay, Trocken, 2010   $70

Pinot Noir | Mosel. Dry and delicately structured — red cherry, rose hip and a mineral, slate-inflected finish; an intriguing expression of Pinot Noir from one of Germany's most unusual terroirs.

Castilla y León

Comando G, Vino de Paraje, Rozas 1er, 2020   $88

Garnacha | Sierra de Gredos. Mountain Garnacha of striking purity — raspberry, pomegranate, violet and granitic mineral lift, with a light body and thrilling freshness that challenges all preconceptions of the grape.

Sicily

Terre Nere, Etna Rosso, Calderara Sottana, Vecchie Vigne (Grande Terroir Ellittico), 2021   $109

Nerello Mascalese | Sicily. Ethereal and volcanic — red cherry, dried herbs, blood orange and a fine, dusty tannin structure shaped by ancient lava soils on the slopes of Etna.

Piedmont

Bartolo Mascarello, Barbera d'Alba, 2013   $150

Barbera | Langhe. From the most revered traditionalist estate in Barolo — velvety richness of fruit delineated by bright, citrus-edged acidity, with plum, spice and a leathery undertone. Mascarello's Barbera carries a Nebbiolo-maker's precision; this is Barbera at its most serious and age-worthy.

Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Barolo, Acclivi, 2016   $325

Nebbiolo | Langhe. Savory and structured in the traditional style — rose petal, tar, dried cherry and a firm, persistent tannic grip. A Barolo of real character from one of the appellation's historic houses.

California

Ceritas, Santa Cruz Mountains, Peter Martin Ray Vineyard, 2017   $167

Cabernet Sauvignon | San Francisco Bay. Structured and dry — dark plum, graphite, dried herb and a firm tannic spine; cool-climate Santa Cruz Cabernet with serious ageing potential.

Littorai, Sonoma Coast, B.A. Thieriot Vineyard, 2021   $179

Pinot Noir | Sonoma County. Coastal and refined — cranberry, red plum, dried tea leaf and a cool, earthy freshness; one of California's most Burgundian expressions of Pinot Noir.